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Engineered construction for greater stability and performance.
FIRE DOORS - clear glass
ALSO AVAILABLE IN THIS RANGE
Untreated and Pre Finished
Fire Doors with Obscure Glass
Fire Door with Clear Glass
White Range includes:
Internal Doors & Clear Glazed
Mix and Matching oak and white doors… Oak downstairs and white upstairs.
Part of the Metropolitan Oak Range these doors contain lines and geometric shapes at the heart of their designs.
A strong statement for a contemporary look.
See our company in action
For a full view into how Oakwood Doors ensures fantastic Customer Service and Great Quality Doors have a look at our video.
Welcome to Oakwood Doors and Spray Finishes
As the North’s leading door Provider, Oakwood Doors & Spray Finishes Ltd strive to deliver fantastic quality Internal Doors and External Doors at the most competitive prices. With 8 years’ experience in building up a small family business into the vibrant e-commerce store that exists today, we believe in providing a one-stop service for your Door and Spray Finishing requirements.
We have a vast collection of Internal Doors from our traditional collections; like our oak Victorian 4 panel & Period Oak 1930 style Ranges, to something with a more Modern twist, like our glazed Oak shaker doors or the ever popular Palermo range. Internal doors allow you to make a truly bold statement in your home providing a touch of excellence in one of the most neglected parts of the house, so view our range today and choose the one that will make your house a home.
Our External Engineered Door ranges are manufactured for extra stability and material economy at great value prices. Why not make your external door stand out; after all you always remember the house with the red door! So why not pick out one of our composite door sets. Available in a range of colours these super secure doors are the perfect addition to ensure your home is inviting to all the right people. View our full range here.
And don't forget the Door Furniture! Door Handles are the essential accessory for any door, and we have a huge range of ironmongery at fantastic prices to give your home an elegant, quality feel throughout.
Whether you are looking for Contemporary Oak Doors or a Professional Flawless Spray Finish, then Oakwood Doors & Spray Finishes Ltd has the product and Professional UK delivery service that you deserve. Order online today and experience quality products and a quality service.
Internal Door Oak Calabria with Clear Bevelled Glass and Raised Moudings Untreated
Price: £151.00 exc. VAT
£181.20 inc. VAT
Internal Door White Potenza Pre Finished Semi Solid Core
Price: £99.17 exc. VAT
£119.00 inc. VAT
Internal Door Semi Solid Core White Severo Pre Finished
Price: £107.50 exc. VAT
£129.00 inc. VAT
Internal Door Semi Solid Core Cesena White Pre Finished
Price: £107.50 exc. VAT
£129.00 inc. VAT
Internal Door Semi Solid Core Cesena White with Clear Bevelled Glass Pre Finished
Price: £135.83 exc. VAT
£163.00 inc. VAT
For musicians in life, making sound is the sole point of existence, but one of the biggest issues around this is the fact that if someone has to practice in their home – everyone else has to be a part of it too.
This means that if someone is a budding musician, they have to play around everyone else, including those that they live with and more often than not, their neighbours too.
Having to lug instruments and equipment to practice rooms and recording studios may seem like the only option, but there is an alternative; soundproofing a room or practice space in your home.
Although this may sound like an expensive solution, thousands of artists all over the UK have turned their spare bedrooms into a practice space or recording studio, where they can play without disturbing anyone else.
If you fancy having a go at it yourself, here is a quick and easy to understand guide on how to soundproof the individual areas of an average room:
Soundproofing your Door
Getting the door soundproofed correctly is imperative to the sonic qualities of the room as a whole, as it is always regarded as one of the main sources of sound loss. This problem is mostly due to the gaps that are found between the door and doorframe, but the door itself is a good starting point.
Stephen Young of Sound Service Soundproofing in Oxford informed us that:
“Effective acoustic seals around the frame and thresholds are of course essential, but the main item that will be blocking the noise is the door leaf itself.
“Ideally this needs to be as dense as possible and made up of a laminate of different hardwoods so the thicker and heavier the door is, the more efficient it will be at blocking noise.”
It may not only be the door that needs a little work, but also the frame itself, which may need thickening. Stephen continues:
“If you can go thicker with maximum weight, it is possible to improve the dB rating. The door leaf should also be hung within a thick, hardwood frame of suitable dimensions to support the door and with 3 or 4 robust hinges.”
To ensure a sound-tight seal, you can purchase expanding foam seal tape online for expense very reasonable price. You will need to apply this to the frame and do so when the door closes. This improves sound insulation approximately 65%.
Soundproofing the Windows
Although doors can present a significant challenge when it comes to sound leakage, if your windows are not double glazed, there is a very high chance that these will be the biggest cause of your problems.
Of course, even double glazed windows do allow some sound to escape and are far worse at insulating than any of the walls.
In either case, DIY secondary double-glazing kits are quite cheap to buy and are also simple to install,as this video shows.
If you really want to avoid sound leakage however, an alternative solution to the above is to block out the window altogether using a heavy wood or MDF shutter. This is the approach taken by many professional studio converters. If this is too much of an expense, you can also use sandbags, though they aren’t very aesthetically pleasing.
Soundproofing the Walls
There have been stories of people gluing egg cartons to their walls, with the assumption that this will help reduce the noise, but unfortunately, the only thing that this will do is make your walls look silly.
If you plan to improve the sonic insulation properties of an existing wall, there are a number of ways to do this.
The first is to create a totally new wall in front of the existing wall, as long as you don’t mind losing a little space along the way.
By adding a sound-deadening board and an extra drywall to each wall of your room, you could look to reduce noise leakage dramatically. This method, although it may take a day or two, is relatively inexpensive though you will lose an inch or two of space on each of your walls.
Another solution is to use something called Green Glue, which is a compound that converts sound energy into heat. This can also be sandwiched between two surfaces such as dry walls. Remember however, that Green Glue takes around ten days to set and another 20 before it reaches its maximum efficiency.
Soundproofing the Ceiling
When it comes to the ceiling, acoustic foam tiles do look attractive, but the truth is that they will keep out very little sound.
If a professional were to look at the situation, they may suggest a false ceiling to add insulation, but this simply is not practical when it comes to the home.
One solution is to look at the floor above (if there is one), and asses the gaps between the floorboards. From here you can fill them out relatively easy with mastic, though you also may want to consider fitting barrier mats (otherwise known as SBM5) between the joists.
Remember however, to fit the barrier mats first so you can then fill the gaps with insulation-grade Rockwool.
Soundproofing the Floor
Soundproofing the floor works a little like soundproofing the ceiling, except this time, you have gravity working in your favour.
On the other hand, it does really depend on what kind of floor you have to work with (concrete being the best). Sonically, domestic floors are typically very poor at providing insulation, so with this being the likely case (if you’re not working in a garage), you may have some work ahead of you.
The cheapest option is to fit a thick underlay beneath your carpet, which can be bought in rolls for around £30 – £50.
If you are looking to buy a new door for your home, it is very important that you do not measure the existing door, but on the actual door frame itself. Here are a couple of tips to help you measure an existing door frame.
There’s always that problem of not quite knowing what to do when you’ve finished painting, particularly with latex. What should I do with my brush? Put it in the sink? Let it dry? Or simply be lazy and throw it in the bin and buy another next time?
Most people go with the latter, and they needn’t. Latex paint is relatively straight forward to clean-up and will save you having to run out to the shops for a new roller or brush every time you need to do a paint job.
Although you can make it a lot more difficult for yourself. The golden rule of cleaning latex paint is don’t let it dry.
Despite being a water soluble paint, it is notoriously difficult to clean up once dry. An acetone based product, available from most DIY stores will help, but save yourself some strenuous scrubbing and start your latex paint clean-up process immediately.
With latex paint being fine to go down the sink, you can run your brushes and equipment under the tap. It is important however to remove as much paint as possible from your equipment before you being to clean-up. Using a paint solvent to enhance the cleaning, you can work the substance into the bristles of your brush and repeat until the paint has disappeared.
Of course some people don’t wish to run paint under their sink, particularly in the kitchen. Outdoor cleaning is fine and probably saves you from flicking paint across your worktops. Making sure you find a suitable spot to tidy, away from any edible plants and plenty of distance from a natural water source, you can simply repeat the process mentioned previously and leave your equipment to dry out in the sunshine.
But if all that seems too much work, make sure the paint is dry before it sees the dustbin
However, if you’re anything like me, then the clean-up process doesn’t end there. Not only will there be paint drops speckled all over the face and work clothes, but on the carpets and windows as well. But panic over, there’s a technique to remove all latex paint stains, and it’s pretty simple too.
Surfaces such as glass and tile can be gently scraped off with a razor blade or sharp object, whilst removing the stain from a carpet takes a few more steps.
It’s important to treat a stain as soon as possible if you splash any on the carpet. After scraping or sponging down the spill, dry-cleaning products will help remove any marks and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with a dry spotter.
As the pad picks up stains, keep changing it and keep it moist with the dry spotter. If any stain remains, add some dry-cleaning fluent to the material to loosen the stain, and repeat the process.
And voila, your partner will be none the wiser.